Sunday 24 April 2016

Chivirico

It was pouring down with rain and not much wind so we decided to pull into Chivirico to hopefully catch some water. (Drinking water VERY expensive @2cuc or 3$ Aus for 5 litre containers!!)
The free cruising guide says the shallowest is 2m and another guide 2.4m, the tide was dead low but I thought we could chance it with our 2m draft. As the guide says you come in on the leads shown on the chart right up close to shore then you see a green marker you keep to port and some stakes marking the reef, quite narrow cut in the reef then head for the concrete jetty where it gets it's shallowest. We went really quite close to the jetty and saw .5m shallowest underneath us so all good. On the way out I went a few meters off my track out there and saw just .2m under us but I think it's all soft mud. 
Anchored in the middle with just over a mtr under us in perfectly sheltered serene little bay. Such a beautiful little fishermans village, so quiet with just the sound of lots of little fish jumping. The next day was raining, we filled all the tanks and our drums was fantastic and then went into the village where you can get fuel, bread and all your basics as well we were told a very good vegetable market a bit further on. Would definitely recomend this place to stock up with basics as a lot easier than in Santiago and cheaper for sure. We went to the fanciest restaurant on the beach with all the farm workers with their horses tied out the front it was quite a scene on the Saturday afternoon. They had a big vat of home brew beer  that you bring your own cup, saucepan or whatever and they give you 700ml for 3 local pesos or equivalent to 12cents australian!!! Little Creatures eat your heart out!! We tried some for sure, tasted like shit (flat, warm 2 day brewed??) but was doing the job as most of the fellas and a even a couple of the ladies were falling about the place happy out. Then a fish dinner with rice and beans for a dollar followed by a pig on a spit, pork buns for 3.5pesos, was unbelievable and now we can see how the locals can live and have fun on the VERY tiny income they get, was great to see. Not one person on the hussle, all very friendly and welcolming and we were the only tourists that we saw. Really felt like the proper Cuba I imagined, don't miss this place if you're heading this way :)

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